Cruising Desolation

In August, my fiancé and 1 year old daughter flew up to British Columbia to meet my parents who were spending the summer cruising in Desolation Sound. My dad, Duncan, and Stepmom, Jan, have been going up to that area on their boat for years. Being that we were based out of Seattle, when I was a kid we did a lot of cruising in the San Juan Islands but this was the first time I had joined them that far north. With my fiancé and daughter in tow this trip was special, and hopefully the first of many.

We spent 8 days cruising from anchorage to anchorage, going ashore only briefly for hiking to a secluded lake for a swim or to pick Malaspina Oysters right off the beach for dinner. The Pacific Northwest has a unique beauty and our surroundings on this trip were majestically beautiful to say the least. 

I asked my parents a few questions about their experience cruising Desolation Sound and about why they love it as boaters: Scroll down to read more and see more photos from our trip!

What drew you to Desolation sound the first time? And what keeps you coming back?

For several years while we were both still working, our vacations would involve cruising the San Juans and the Canadian Gulf Islands, enjoying the beautiful anchorages,  trips ashore and an appetizing variety of sea life. The only downside being the easy access for the hundreds of weekend cruisers of almost every description. We once encountered a 31’ sailboat just off Orcas Island. He was completely lost. Apparently, it was his son’s boat, and there were no charts aboard whatsoever. We gave him a laminated placemat “chart” we had and pointed them in the right direction…

The further north we went, seemingly, the better -and less populated- it got. We made a precious few trips to Desolation Sound but they were necessarily short stays due to the additional time involved making the passages up the Strait of Georgia and back.

After thirty years owning sailboats, due to either old age or common sense, I finally realized that to be both warm and dry, and on a boat in the northwest, it should have some sort of inside steering.

I decided a trawler made to most sense and decided I needed one large enough for my wife and I to live aboard comfortably.

It’s a long story, but I decided to build one. I was in the boat business and knew better but as many of you know these are not always rational decisions. There was no budget for labor so it took awhile.

Fast forward several years, our vessel “Turning Point”, an Edwin Monk Jr. designed 67’ Pilothouse trawler is nearly finished. We’ve been from Southern California to SE Alaska but this summer, we are now both retired and decided to head up to Desolation and spend as much time in each anchorage as we wanted and had always felt denied J

The allure is not only the beauty but the increasingly more and less populated anchorages the further north you venture. Over the years we decided that at least for us, Desolation Sound is the “sweet spot” for our Northwest Cruising. The Broughton Island Archipelago is the next option to the north but even in the summer months the weather there can be cooler, being exposed to Queen Charlotte Sound. This and the often lumpy trip up Johnstone Strait make it worth the trip for cruisers with more time and seeking less people and frequently deserted anchorages.

We worked it out so that our friends and family would fly in or drive up to Campbell River on Vancouver Island where we could pick them up, re provision and head back out again. Air fare from Vancouver Airport is currently only $100 (Canadian) and substantially cheaper than our previous Kenmore Air seaplane arrangement.

Do you have any advice for boaters who cruising in the area for the first time?

Desolation Sound consists of a group of islands and inlets, fjords really, ending in the mountains to the east and flanked by the “Inside Passage” to Alaska and Vancouver Island on the west.

Basically, as you venture further north, self sufficiency becomes more important. If something breaks, there is still help available but it is further away and parts often several days out (read: expensive) Access to fresh water can be challenging in many places and may necessitate marina stops more often than needed in other areas.

Tides become more extreme the further north you cruise and should always be considered when anchoring.

What is the Customs process like when crossing into Canada?

Traveling north from the US to the Gulf Islands requires a stop to clear Canadian customs. We usually hit Bedwell Harbour, now called “Poet’s Cove”. This process is usually quick and painless; however it is advisable to check Canadian Customs website to ensure you don’t have any listed contraband aboard, ie, certain fresh fruits and vegetables (for some reason, potatoes aren’t welcome anywhere). There are alcohol limits and marijuana, legal in Washington and soon in BC, will never be legal bring in via sea. Firearms are also extremely illegal.

With “Customs” behind you, the Canadian Gulf Islands are wonderful. The geology changes dramatically, allowing anchoring close to shore in many more bays and coves.

In settled weather, crossing the Strait of Georgia isn’t dangerous with a reasonably experienced crew and seaworthy vessel. Monitor weather forecasts, buoy reports and confirm the status of area WG (whiskey golf), either “active or inactive” It’s a military torpedo testing range.

A bit further north up the coast of British Columbia and you will enter the Desolation Sound area.

The “season,” as described by locals, is in July and August however we have also enjoyed our trips in June and September. For those cruising Desolation Sound for the first time take advantage of the many marine parks. The settings are beautiful and anchorages both within and outside the park borders are abundant. Marinas are available but not as plentiful as you experienced in the San Juan’s or Gulf Islands.  To really get to know the area it is wise to pick up a guide book this will help you understand any tricky passages as well as tips for anchoring. Basic provisions are available at several locations throughout area for supplementing provisions.